The Best: The freshness and creativity of the food. Might Not Like: lack of parking and the long lines that are likely on the weekends.
To eat at Sqirl is to actively participate in the gentrification of Los Angeles in a way that would set Carole Kane’s character in Kimmy Schmidt on a sanctimonious tirade. And she might not be unjustified. Set in a Silver Lake adjacent neighborhood among florists, beauty shops, and local markets, this tiny corner anchor of hipsterness is glaringly out of place, but maybe, just maybe that is not such a bad thing. Perhaps Carole Kane could be appeased with a slice of toast lathered in Ricotta and homemade jam. Because we all know that beauty is appreciated in any part of the city, and in a place where the rents for everyone have skyrocketed through the roof, we’re glad that Sqirl has found one to live under.
Jessica Kovac’s food is beautiful. Her creative culinary powerhouse has become a hallmark for constantly reconstructing the flavor edge in the already well-exercised LA landscape. Each dish is layered with tastes that complement and create an experience where you never doubt that the whole is more than the sum of its parts. Her dedication to in-house made creations are the ultimate, accessible version of farm to table. With a practically life-sized picture of one of their supplying farmers glowing in the back hallway, the connection with the land is almost palpable against the backdrop of a bright green field.
The menu might best be described as avant garden with a rich collection of vegetables and herbs featured in almost every preparation. Perfect golden globes of yolks adorn luscious bowls of Koho Rose rice and brioche toast enrobed in jams and toppings towers above plates. The sandwiches are truly creativity set between two slices of scrumptious bread, and the daily specials make it a challenge to ever have “a usual” at Sqirl.
Food is for everyone, and Sqirl’s location is a reminder that local, organic, well-made food is welcome in any neighborhood. Honestly I wish there were more places like Sqirl. More places with fairly reasonably priced fresh food far from the farms that source it, bringing a little bit of the outside in to where we live between concrete and sunshine.
Shine on, Sqirl.
This place has it all: It’s Hip, it’s Trendy, you can get an enormous toast for $8 so that’s kind of Cheap, and if you want more, well, truth be told it’s probably a little bit Spendy–but totally worth it.